Paolo Penko: from the Florentine Bottega to the stars, via the Oscars [2025]
Photos: courtesy of Paolo Penko & Ludovica Barone
Among the Italian names in the running for the Oscars 2025, one stands out that sounds familiar; a name that brings to Hollywood all the values of true Italian well-made, and for this reason it is a source of immense pride for all of us: the Florentine goldsmith Bottega Paolo Penko.
The Penko family, already well-known in Florence for its meticulous goldsmith work, heir to ancient artisan traditions, was asked to craft about 530 pieces of jewelry [cardinal crosses, rings and cufflinks] for the movie ‘Conclave’, directed by Edward Berger, in only three months.. an unexpected challenge and an intensive work for artisans who work strictly by hand, as true craftsmanship tradition dictates.
“Each piece of jewellery was conceived and designed to reflect the role and personality of the characters, helping to delineate their essence through the art of the goldsmith. The idea behind our work was to use jewellery not only as accessories, but as real narrative tools, capable of telling the story and the character of each protagonist.”
- Riccardo Penko
After a great success in the US, the film ‘Conclave’, inspired by the novel by Robert Harris, arrived in Italian cinemas on 19 December 2024 [First presented at the Rome Cinema Festival in October 2024] with an extraordinary cast including Ralph Fiennes, Stanley Tucci, John Lithgow, Isabella Rossellini and Sergio Castellitto.
Each piece of jewelry was therefore made strictly by hand, following the features of the character's personality-
- using traditional but also innovative techniques, typical of Bottega Penko, such as lost-wax casting, fretwork, engraving and ‘penkato’ along with a careful historical and symbolic research.
The Bottega was approached by costume designer Lisy Christl, who immediately recognised the potential of the family's excellent work; her vision ensured that the jewelry perfectly complemented the visual narrative of the movie, complemented by extraordinary cinematography.
It is no coincidence that ‘Conclave’ has already collected numerous international awards, including ‘Best Screen Design’ at the Golden Globes, eight Oscar nominations, and twelve Baftas, including best costumes!
A prestigious milestone for the finest Italian craftsmanship; which brings the Florentine goldsmith's art into the international spotlight: an accolade that, somehow, involves all of us!
Paolo Penko's goldsmith's workshop, in the shadow of Brunelleschi's dome, is one of the places in Florence where our collective heritage is consciously guarded. More than five centuries since the virtuoso Florentine goldsmiths fulfilled the commissions of enlightened patrons, here gestures and liturgies remain the same, faithful to those methods that made Florentine goldsmithing world-famous; a contemplation of the past that is not melancholic or nostalgic but rather a responsible awareness.
With this exceptional accolade, the Penko family has demonstrated how excellent savoir-faire, combined with brilliant entrepreneurship, can reach unbelievable milestones, yet without betraying its artisan essence, rooted in ancient values.
Cardinal Bellini's cross.
Played by Stanley Tucci, the Cardinal Bellini’s Cross was inspired by Giotto's Franciscan crucifixes. In the centre, the symbol of the pelican feeding its young is the emblem of Christ's sacrifice.
An ancient legend says that if the chicks died of starvation, the pelican would open its breast and keep them alive by feeding them with its own body. This is why Christians have adopted this animal as a symbol of Christ, the Redeemer who sacrifices himself to give eternal life to humanity, freeing it from sin, and feeds it with his own body in the Eucharistic rite.
On the back, is engraved the Latin sentence:
“PIE PELLICANE, JESU DOMINE, ME IMMUNDUM MUNDA TUO SANGUINE”
The cross made for Ralph Fiennes, playing Cardinal Lawrence, features a simple and humble shape, this cross recalls the first early Christian crosses and the origins of Christianity. The cross has always been a symbol of the Passion, Death and Resurrection of Jesus, a sign of hope and an evangelical invitation to imitate Jesus in everything, accepting even suffering with patience.
For Isabella Rossellini, who plays Sister Agnese, the Penko family crafted a silver cross and ring, unique pieces that reflect the character's strength and stability. The ring represents two intertwined hands, symbolising the love between God and humanity. For Sergio Castellitto, who plays Cardinal Tedesco, a traditionally styled cross was crafted, embellished with five red agate stones [Img. 1], recalling the domes of St. Mark's Basilica and the wounds of Christ. On the back is an open book with the inscription PAX TIBI MARCE EVANGELISTA MEUS, in homage to Venetian history.
For Lucian Msamati [img. 4], who plays Cardinal Adeyemi, the cross is embellished on the front with an oval, cabochon-cut lapis lazuli set in a quadrilobed shape; the arms of this cross are inspired by the plan of St Peter's Square. Lapis lazuli, with its midnight blue colour, symbolises the spirit and the attainment of Paradise, as well as being the colour of the Virgin Mary's mantle.
The cross worn by John Lithgow [img. below], who plays Cardinal Trembley, symbolises the hope of receiving forgiveness for one's sins and being reconciled with God. It is embellished with four citrine quartz, which, due to their golden hue, the ancients believed to be a materialisation of the Sun, a reference to divinity. The bas-relief is inspired by Andrea della Robbia's glazed terracotta altarpiece, dated 1481, in the Sanctuary of La Verna (Tuscany). Below the cross, Adam's skull recalls the tradition that the first human being was buried with a seed in his mouth and from that tree was later made the wood of the cross.
Lisy Christl, costume designer of ‘Conclave’, collecting the CDGA: Costume Designers Guild Awards
- LA, February 7th 2025
My Italian Premiere Cross
Rome, October 26th 2024 | Roma Cinema Festival
I can only be immensely grateful to have been at the side of Riccardo and Alessandro Penko on the day of the movie premiere at the Roma Cinema Festival; sharing with them the thrill of watching the movie for the very first time, with the extra privilege of wearing one of those stunning crosses, was one of the most cherished experiences of the year! We ended the evening strolling in the streets of Rome, toasting this huge achievement together and building precious memories. The cross, which I will cherish with due care, features a sublime iconography of ivy, which is often found in works depicting the Passion; being an evergreen, it is a symbol of eternal love and fidelity.
Towards the Oscars..
The Oscars awards night will take place on Sunday 2nd of March 2025 . ‘Conclave’ has collected 8 nominations: best film, best leading actor [Ralph Fiennes], best supporting actress [Isabella Rossellini], best costumes [!!!], best soundtrack, best non-original screenplay, best set design, best editing.
We can only wish the best to these excellent ambassadors of our cultural identity and all those values that have contributed to making Italy and Italians renowned throughout the world.
To Hollywood and beyond!
Alessandro and Riccardo Penko